If you want the best salmon croquettes in the world, you go see Mama.

Not your mama, but Mama.

Mama is Gail Thomas, a 23-year employee at Doc’s Seafood Shack in Orange Beach.

Now Doc’s makes as good a seafood as you’ll find anywhere on Pleasure Island.

Now that right there is saying something, because you’ll find some great seafood on Pleasure Island. From Cobalt’s to DeSoto’s to Shrimp Basket to Original Oyster House to Wintzell’s to King Neptune’s to Happy Harbors to the Hangout to Joey’s North Shore Deli to Ribs and Reds  … infinity.

All the restaurants here have their own culinary delights; Tacky Jack’s, Big Fish, LuLu’s, Flippers, Flora-Bama, Pink Pony; they all have great food. Bubba’s, Hazel’s, et al, have great food. Visit as many as you can. You won’t be disappointed.

But only one has Mama. Only one has salmon croquettes, available only to the staff, and desperate hangers-on only.

I’m a desperate hanger-on. Doc’s is less than a mile from my house. They have mean waitresses in the daytime – they’ve been there many years, serving the working folks meat and three for lunch – and meaner ones at night.

That right, there is a bit of hyperbole. They are not mean, but they will keep up a lively banter with customers who have known them for years and years.

Really, they’re all sweethearts. Hard working sweethearts, too. Everybody loves ’em all.

But, to get to them salmon croquettes, you have to be well acquainted with everybody. That means the busboys, hostesses, managers, cooks and dishwashers.

Well, I’m acquainted with everybody. Nobody who works at Doc’s walks by me without saying “Hey, Big John,” or “Hey honey,” or “What’s up with you, today?” I bring ‘em vintage country music and share books and sometimes share my delicious north Alabama chicken and white sauce with ’em. Thighs only.

They feed me the sumptuous lunches, and sometimes let me in on the fare they cook up for themselves.

Now, the food at Doc’s is killer, good as any around. But it’s what the fabulous staff there has been cooking every day for years and years.

It prompts a little creativity at times. Can you imagine what they concoct for themselves?

Sometimes a little change is in order — For them.

Mama, more times than not, affords that change. She cooks something a little different from time to time for the staff — and the hangers-on.

“Mama,” says I, “Them sure was some good salmon croquettes you cooked up last week.”

“I’m glad you liked ’em, baby, you want some more?”

“Yes, ma’am, I sure do.”

“Well, you come on in on Friday, I’ll cook you some.”

“Can I bring you some salmon?”

“Yes you can, baby. Bring me a can.”

“I’ll bring you four,” I said. “I got a friend who wants some, too. I done told her about ’em.”

“OK, baby, you bring ’em. I’ll cook ’em.”

Mama’s sweet that way.

John Mullen is news director of The Islander.