The Character of the Land

Posted 11/6/15

When it comes to wine, the universe revolves around France. At least that’s what the French believe when comparing their land to any other part of the world. So, they gave us the term “terroir” to add another layer of mystique and confusion to …

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The Character of the Land

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When it comes to wine, the universe revolves around France. At least that’s what the French believe when comparing their land to any other part of the world. So, they gave us the term “terroir” to add another layer of mystique and confusion to the novice wine drinker. Translated literally, “terroir” means soil or land.

The modern winemaker has proven grapes can be grown and a decent bottle of wine can be produced just about anywhere in the world. Yet, certain areas are noted regions for producing high caliber wines. And when you investigate why, you quickly realize that soil, the climate and the topography are the differentials that distinguish these regions. And this is what “terroir” really means.

Just for an understanding, topography involves the surface shape of the Earth, the elevation as to where a vineyard is planted. It’s important because it has to do with creating the climate of the region. The climate is defined as the long term averages of weather conditions in particular area and what makes it favorable to grow certain grapes. The soil is important because it supports the root structure of the plant. It influences the drainage levels and amount of minerals and nutrients that is taken in by the plant itself.

So what does that have to do with a particular bottle of wine?

In the book entitled “The Vintner’s Art: How Great Wines Are Made,” co-authors Hugh Johnson and James Halliday define terroir “as part of a tripod that describes the key aspects by which all fine wine is judged.” The tripod consists of character, quality and personality.

Of the three legs on this tripod, only quality is controlled by man; it’s defined by the winemaking itself. Personality is defined by the weather, not the climate. We differentiate between climate and weather because weather is the day-to-day fluctuations in the climate. For example, in a cool climate that is ideal for pinot noir, bad weather may destroy an entire vintage, or the amount of rain during the growing cycle could affect the sugar content of the grapes, adding another element to the flavor and thus changing the personality of the wine.

And that brings us back to character, which is defined by terroir. It turns out the soil, climate and topography are what give a wine its character.

Maybe France is onto something … but don’t forget about the rest of the world!